Mayreau - Still Beautiful

Mayreau, Grenadines
Sailing from Bequia to Mayreau, the winds were fair.  Not too much heeling (I still don't know why they didn't have gimballed cup holders on our boat...)  We decided to do some laundry along the way - nothing beats fresh, ocean air dried clothes.  We've been here a couple of times before - on day sails with other charters.  First time was in 2004 and I have to say that things have changed quite a bit here - much busier, but not necessarily in a bad way.  Mayreau is a very small island - about 1.5 square miles, with a small population of about 300, so the increase in boat traffic is probably a good thing for this somewhat remote place.

Laundry Day
We arrived early enough in Saltwhistle Bay to secure a good spot.  There were already lots of boats, but it didn't feel too crowded.  First order of business?  Raise our flag and take a swim - another scorching hot day.  Soon after our arrival - The Boats began arriving.  Let me explain.  In these small bays, where shopping is virtually non-existent, some enterprising souls, in their motor boats, will come out to your boat and sell you goods.  Mr. Fabulous arrived - produce vendor.  He said he gets the produce over on Union Island and makes his rounds of the bays.  He had lots of beautiful produce for sale.  We were able to get some fresh tomatoes, citrus, onions and a bunch of thyme.  Prices were reasonable - considering the produce is being brought to you, fresh, on your boat, in virtually the middle of nowhere.

The next boat to approach was selling fish (there was no real duplication of services - clearly these enterprising gents had their markets cornered).  The vendor did a drive by, showing his wares, and waited for some interest.  We flagged him over, he tied up and we saw what he had for sale.  I think his name was John and he said his father had caught the fish that morning.  Beautiful, fresh fish.  Again, I have to marvel.  Coming from a town where the ocean is quite far away, and therefore, so is fresh ocean catch - I always feel the need to take advantage of these opportunities when they become available.  We decided on four small red snappers, which would be cooked on the grill that evening.  We enjoyed them prepared simply - rinsed with lime and salt, then slathered with some Caribbean green seasoning, and cooked over charcoal. YUM!  The meat fell away from the frame.  Yes, there were bones, but it just made us take longer to savour our catch.  I am beginning to realize that perhaps I need to live nearer to the ocean...
Service includes dressing the fish.
Last boat was the bread/ice boat - if you can believe it.  A white rastafarian selling baguettes, croissants, pain au chocolat, and ice delivery (from his accent, I surmised that he spoke French - great as there were quite a few French charters in the bay).  Prices for these goods vary by island, vendor and time of day sometimes :-)  We agreed to have some ice delivered later that evening and some the next morning around 8am, before heading out to the Tobago Cays.

Mayreau is a beautiful island with a stunning beach at Saltwhistle Bay.  If you get the chance to stop here, you should - so you can experience some unspoiled, not-too populated Caribbean.

Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau
Proudly flying our colours
A quite sunset

1 comment:

  1. This is great Jo, and that red fish meat on that carcus looked scrumptious! Rasta ice man… Wonder what else he vended! ;-)